Rigid copper pipe is good for new installation. Soft or flexible copper pipe is good for repair work since it can bend around obstacles without multiple cuts and joints.
Type K is heaviest, used in municipal, commercial, residential and underground installation; Type L is medium weight and is the most commonly used in residential water lines; Type M is hard and thin.
Recommended for light domestic water lines and not permitted in some city codes or for underground use.
Common sizes are 3/8”, 1/2 and 3/4”.
Refrigeration tube has moisture removed and ends sealed for better performance of refrigerants. Often used in heater connections but may corrode. For heater connections, use flexible brass or aluminum.
Larger sizes also used for DWV (drain-waste-vent) applications.
Used for carrying low-pressure cold water. Common applications include golf course sprinklers, underground conduits or to carry corrosive liquids and gases.
Good chemical and crush resistance.
Lightweight enough to cut with an ordinary knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw blade.
Used for carrying cold water, irrigation, as conduit and for DWV (drain-waste-vent) projects.
Rated by thickness and strength. Common ratings (thickest to thinnest) are Schedule 40 (most common), Class 315, Class 200 and Class 125 (generally used for irrigation).
Available in sizes from 1/2” to 2”. White in color.
Is a faucet located on the outside wall of the house that easily hooks to garden hoses.
The best type is a frost-proof sill cock, made of heavy red brass, that looks and works like any ordinary faucet. However, water flow valves are located inside the building where it is warm.
The anti-siphon frost-proof sill cock employs integral back-siphon and back-flow devices. These serve to prevent potential back-siphonage, which, if unchecked, could compromise the safe potable water supply to the home. Hose-attached garden sprays and other pressurized canisters can potentially link a cross-connection if a pressure charge occurs when the frostproof is in the open position.
The anti-siphon frostproof sillcock allows for outside spigot usage in freezing climates. The closing member (seat washer) is located inside the heated building.
Mounts either on laundry tubs or on the wall above the tub. Most fiberglass tubs require a ledge faucet with 4″ centers.
Sometimes furnished with a standard 3-3/4″ hose thread outlet on the spout. Most codes require the use of a vacuum breaker attachment if the outlet contains threads to prevent water contamination.
Often come in a combination style, where hot and cold mix in a single arm.
Are available in several different patterns.
A Ledge-Mounted faucet is mounted in a horizontal position.
Standard lavatory faucets are made with 4″ centers.
Wide Spread faucets (see image in next window) are made with adjustable center measurements up to 12″.
The Wall-Mounted unit is connected to pipes coming through the wall above the sink. It is mounted vertically.
The most common size in kitchen sink faucets is 8″ center, but 6″ and 4″ are also available.
Concealed faucets are mounted underneath the sink, with only handle flanges and spout visible.
Exposed faucets are mounted on top of the sink, with or without sprays.
A mixing faucet, known generally as single lever, is produced by a number of manufacturers as swing spout kitchen faucets, lavatory faucets and bath faucets. They ordinarily operate by pushing the upright lever straight backward for a 50-50 opening of hot and cold water, back and to the right for cold, and back and to the left for hot water. They have the advantage of being quick-opening and closing, and nearly all have complete repair kits.
An Over-The-Counter faucet is easier to install because there is no need to crawl under the sink and reach behind the basin to secure the faucet. It comes with factory-installed flexible supply lines and a spring-loaded toggle, with the screw head concealed by the escutcheon.
Water is controlled by openings in the two discs. When the discs are rotated to align, the water flows. When the discs are misaligned, the water shuts off.
May have one or two handles.
Fix by replacing the O-rings or, better yet, replace the whole disc.
When the spindle is turned down, the washer or disk attached to its lower end is pressed tightly against a smoothly finished ring or ground-seat that surrounds the flow opening to shut off the water flow. If the washer and seat do not make a firm contact at all points, water will leak. This usually happens when the washer becomes worn.
Seats in faucets that are not removable may be reground with reseating tools.
Uses a rubber diaphragm or two metal, plastic or ceramic discs with holes that align to let the water flow or close to shut off the water flow. Ceramic plates are more difficult to damage than rubber seats, but hard water can sometimes cause problems with the ceramic cartridges, such as squeaking or sticking.
Single-handle faucets that use stainless steel ball design have just one moving part and are a durable alternative.
Reduces leakage problems that result from worn washers.
Easy to repair because most new models have the water-control mechanism housed in a replaceable cartridge.
Replacing a cartridge is an easy do-it-yourself project, compared to working on conventional faucets. Most faucets that offer this convenience are labeled “self-contained cartridge.”
Used to clear stopped-up drains by chemical action.
Most liquid drain cleaners are heavier than water and will seek out the stoppage, even if the sink, tub or bowl is full of water.
Cleaners are typically a combination of potassium hydroxide, which turns grease to soft soap, and thioglycolic acid, that dissolves hair. Others may contain sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid or lye.
Toxic liquids should carry warnings and must be used with caution.
Help remove minerals (magnesium, calcium, iron) that cause “hard” water.
Quality water softeners have either fiberglass linings or steel tanks that have double coatings of epoxy for guaranteed rustproofing.
Fiberglass tanks prevent electrolytic action that causes excessive rust and corrosion because there is no metal-to-metal contact.
When water enters the home, it is directed into the water softener. Water passes over a mineral bed, with minerals holding the lime and magnesium present in the water.
Chemicals in the water softener unit must be regenerated, cleaned or replaced. The regeneration process happens by reversing the flow of water through the softener tank and adding sodium chloride or potassium chloride. The reversed water flow quickly flushes accumulated minerals from the chemical.
Quality water softeners have solid brass and copper valves and bearings. Iron or steel parts are seldom used in a quality softener because salt can cause rust.
Is closed on one end and either has male threads (for galvanized pipe) or no threads (for PVC and other solvent welded pipe.
Used to seal a run of pipe or fitting.
A Cleanout Plug can be added to a tee at the base of a vertical drain pipe. The plug is threaded for easy access to the drain. The threaded fitting for the plug can be added on, or some tee fittings have the threaded connection built-in.
Any kind of fitting that helps connect two different types of tubing, such as copper and galvanized steel, or threaded and solvent weld, or two different sizes that are usually incompatible.
A dielectric fitting connects pipe of dissimilar metals (such as copper and galvanized metal) to prevent corrosion in the copper pipe.
Two main types, reducers and bushings, are used to convert from one size to another.
Smaller than the yoke vise. Has a fixed lower V-shaped jaw with teeth on where the pipe is laid and a bicycle-type chain fastened to one end. When the pipe is inserted, the chain is placed over it and locked in a slot on the opposite side.
Removes burrs from the inside of the pipe. Burrs are the flakes of metal or plastic on the outside and inside of the pipe after the pipe is cut.
Cone-shaped, with ratchet handles.
Cutting edges can be sharpened, but this is difficult and time-consuming and the small replacement cost usually makes it impractical.
Straight-fluted reamers have straight cutting edges. They can be used by hand or in a pipe rotating on a power drive unit.
Spiral-fluted reamers have spiral-shaped cutting edges. They cut more easily, save time and are often used by sheet metal workers to enlarge holes in sheet metal and conduit box outlets, as well as smoothing inside edges of pipe. They are for hand use only.
Easier to use than an ordinary hacksaw, and it makes a cleaner cut.
Has a single cutting wheel and two rollers that make smooth right-angle cuts.
Some have a triangular blade-type reamer that folds out of the way when not in use.
Sized to cut material with outside diameters ranging from 1/8″ through 4-1/2″.
Major points of wear are rollers, wheels and pins on which they are mounted. When cutter wheels are worn out, they should be replaced; sharpening them is not advisable.
Separate cutting wheels for plastic pipe are also available.
Used when a valve must be opened and closed frequently under high water pressure.
Used to control volume of flow. These valves have two chambers with a partition between them for passage of water that must change course several times from port to port.
Should not be used in water supply lines for occasional shut-off purposes.
An angle valve is similar to a globe valve, but has its ports at right angles. Install at a turn in piping to eliminate the necessity of an elbow (this is often preferred to using a globe valve and elbow).
An angle valve has greater water passage than a globe valve. Since there is only one change in direction of flow, there is less resistance.
A Connector Globe Valve uses a union fitting on one side.
Used to protect water heaters or hot water storage tanks.
When the water pressure reaches a dangerous level, the valve opens and discharges water. Cold water then flows into the tank and stabilizes the water pressure.
Operates automatically, permitting flow in one direction only.
Sometimes combined with a throttling or shut-off valve. Some communities require a check valve in cold water lines between the water heater and meter.
Used to prevent water pumped to an overhead tank from flowing back when the pump stops.
Some check valves are designed for use with vertical pipes only. Therefore, it will not work if installed upside down. The closing deviceóa disk, ball or clapperófalls shut by gravity when installed vertically.
Another variety is the Swing-Type check valve, which is a small, smooth swing-type gate located in the center of the valve. As water is pumped through the flow side of the valve, a gate swings open to allow water to pass. If water attempts to back up through the valve, the gate is forced shut against the pressure side of the valve.
Made of vitreous china and finished with a high-gloss glaze.
Designed to be durable and sanitary.
White and almond are most common colors.
Federal law mandates that all new toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush, compared to old models that used 3.5 gallons or more.
Gravity-fed toilets operate with a conventional flush, where water draining from the tank is released into the bowl and its weight and gravity pull waste down the drain.
Pressure-assisted units use pressure built up within the water supply to increase the force of the flush. These tend to be noisier than gravity-fed models, but the bowl empties quickly (within 4 seconds). The larger water seal surface results in fewer stains. Since the trapway on pressure-assisted models has fewer bends, it is less likely to clog than a gravity-fed system.
A third type of toilet uses a pump to assist the flushing operation with increased pressure. Some models are even designed to flush automatically when the seat lid is closed. Dual flushers feature a lever that uses 1.6 gallons for solid waste removal and 1.1 gallons for liquid waste.
The rough-in is the distance from the finished wall to the center of the sewer outlet. Standard rough-ins are 10″, 12″ or 14″.
Surrounds the opening that lets water into the bowl.
Kept closed by a rubber flush ball or flapper.
The flush valve seat is attached to the Overflow Tube, which drains water back into the bowl if the water level goes above it. This is a good safety precaution if the inlet valve fails.
Also called a Flush Valve Seat Ball, this device sits on the flush valve seat and attaches to the trip lever with a chain, rod or guide arm.
When the outside handle on the toilet tank is pressed down, it raises a trip lever that pulls the flapper off its seat. Water inside the tank pours through the opening to flush the toilet bowl.
The valve stays closed with water pressure. However, once the trip lever lifts the device, it remains off the seat by floating on top of the water until the tank is empty. As the water level drops, the flapper gradually settles back into the opening, sealing it so the tank can refill for the next flush.
A new style design has replaced the older ball-style. It is connected to the float arm with a chain and eliminates many of the problems associated with wires, rods and guide arms.
Hardware should be sturdy and non-rusting. Metal hardware should be solid brass with a quality finish.
Some toilet seats have “easy-on, easy-off” hinge posts that facilitate installation by the homeowner. These hinge posts also make it practical to remove the seat for thorough cleaning.
Uses water pressure forced through a diverting valve to create one or more pulsating water actions.
In most cases, users can vary the amount of pulsing pressure or force to their liking.
Available in hand-held or permanently mounted models. While all offer massaging action of one or more kinds, they can all be easily converted to conventional shower action.
Some brands feature on-off flow control built into the handle, which is a brass push-button diverter valve that permits instant switch from showerhead to hand shower and a 6′ flexible hose and hang-up bracket.
It can be easily attached to existing shower arms.
Copper-, stone- and glass-lined water heaters perform better than unlined aluminum or galvanized steel heaters.
A stainless steel alloy called HWT is designed to resist corrosion as well as the lined models.
Unlined galvanized steel tanks perform least well, but they are the least expensive and may prove satisfactory in localities where the water supply does not have adverse effects on equipment.
To stop tank corrosion, a magnesium-coated metal rod is available. It is hung inside the tank 3″ or 4″ away from the bottom. Because the magnesium paper eventually will be eaten away, the rod should be inspected from time to time and replaced when necessary.
Better-grade, non-metallic gas water heaters are also popular.
The tanks, although more expensive than metal models, are light, easy to install and corrosion-proof.
Advise homeowners to partially drain their water heater once or twice a year to remove the accumulation of sediment, which can affect operation.
Tankless water heaters are small heating units that are hooked into plumbing lines and heat water only as needed. They do not store water, but heat it as it moves through the unit.
Larger tankless heaters are installed at the point where water enters the house; smaller units are installed at the point where water is used and require more than one in a house. Some operate on house current, others on gas.
Some of the larger units require different size plumbing lines and different size flue vents than do tank-type heaters.
If gas-fueled, the heater must be properly vented; if electric, it may need to be wired with two units in series which may not be practical for existing home wiring. Larger units require a 220V or 240V line. Smaller units will operate on standard 110V lines.
Tankless heaters are more expensive than tank types. However, they do produce savings in annual energy consumption and cost.
Although tankless heaters will deliver continuous hot water, they are limited in quantity. The central units cannot support hot water demands from several points at the same time; obviously, the smaller units will heat water delivered only at the points where they are installed.
Because of the high initial cost and the fact that American consumers are not used to the limitations these heaters place on the availability of hot water, their recommended use is to supplement existing tank-type heaters or in summer homes or locations where demand for hot water is light.
Used to remove bacteria and/or chemicals suspended in water to improve its taste and smell. Filters either install under the sink or at the point where the water supply enters the building (whole-house filters). Others mount on the faucet or countertop.
The basic types of water filtration devices are activated-carbon filters, reverse osmosis, distillation and aeration.
Activated-carbon filters are the least expensive water filtration devices. They can remove impurities and improve water taste and odor, but do not eliminate dissolved minerals or bacteria. One solution is to combine a carbon filter with a chlorination system.
Reverse-osmosis systems take out dissolved lead, mercury,cadmium and other heavy metals that are present in the water, but will not eliminate microorganisms. They are also relatively expensive.
Distillation removes most impurities in the water system. Distillers work slowly and must be cleaned regularly.
Aeration reduces, but does not necessarily eliminate, the levels of iron, chlorine and other gases in the water. It works best when combined with other treatment forms.
Some filters feature cartridges that can be cleaned and reused several times before replacement.
Filters based on ceramic technology will remove up to 100 percent of bacteria as well as chemicals, tastes and odors. Some have proven effective in removing such contaminants as algae, chlorine and detergents found in many urban water supplies.
Another under-sink model even reduces levels of MTBE, a gasoline additive that contaminates some wells and municipal water systems.
Always study information about the specific filters that you are selling.
Used to discharge ground water that accumulates around a basement that is below the water line. The basement should have a drain tile around it to collect ground water and convey it to the sump in the basement.
A Submersible type pump is a motor and pump sealed in one unit that rests in the sump pit.
A Pedestal pump sits in the water, but the motor is mounted on a column above the water. They are available in automatic or manual models, either gravity-fed or self-priming operation.
Pump capacity is rated by gallons-per-hour pumped as well as ìliftî pressure generatedóhow high the liquid is to be pumped.Submersible Sewage and Effluent pumps are for continuous use in moving large volumes of water containing solids.
Some pumps have battery backup, and a combination electric and battery-powered sump pump is now available.
Uses a sliding wedge to move across the waterway, in either a rising or non-rising action.
Used to completely shut off or open a waterway. Does not control the volume of flow.
In some models, either opening of a gate valve may face the pressure side of the line, while in others, an arrow indicates the direction of water flow.
Because they allow the complete passage of water, use on supply lines that are in constant use.
A Connector Gate Valve uses a union fitting on one side.
The tank will supply water between the cut-on and cut-off pressure setting on the pump, usually 20-40 psi. While 20-40 lbs. pressure is adequate, 30-50 lbs. or 40-60 lbs. is best for home supplies. Since the tank supplies small amounts of water, the pump does not have to turn on each time a faucet is used.
Pumps are shallow-well or deep-well. Shallow-well pumps are installed at well depths of 25′ or less. Where deep-well pumps can be used in water depths of 300′ or greater, depending on altitude.
Horsepower rating determines pump size. Pumps used in theaverage home are 1/3-, 1/2-, 3/4- or 1-hp. When choosing a pump, find the required capacity by counting the number of faucets in the home (count tub faucets as two) and multiplying by 60. This is the number of gallons-per-hour the pump should supply from the well. Always allow for additional appliances that use water or for appliances you may add in the future.
Home water-system pumps are usually centrifugal or jet. This type builds a centrifugal force, which lifts the water.
Older homes may have a piston pump. A piston pump builds pressure that pulls water up through the casing.
There are several important terms to know when selling a pump:
Well-sized. The inside diameter of the well indicates proper size pump, ejector, cylinder or drop pipe (pipe that is lowered into well casing to transport the water) and foot valve (located at the bottom of the drop pipe to keep water from flowing backward into the well).
Pumping level. The vertical distance in feet from pump to water level while the pump is operating. If pump is installed away from the well and is on higher ground, this elevation must also be included.
Most wells draw down (water level goes down inside the well as water is pumped into the home) so this must not be confused with standing water level.
Average discharge pressure: The usual average discharge pressure is 30 lbs., halfway between the 20-40 lb. switch setting of most water systems. When the tank is installed away from the pump at a higher level or when house or yard fixtures are above the pump and tank, a greater pressure is needed and a larger pump must be used.
Capacity required: This is the discharge capacity of the pump in gallons per hour necessary for satisfactory service. The pump should have enough capacity so that it does not need to work more than the equivalent of two hours a day in intermittent service.
Well points: These are used to drive wells in soil that is soft and primarily free of rock and where water is known to be close to the surface. Points are screwed onto the end of pipe to be lowered into the ground; then the point and pipe are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer or mallet. Well points have strainer baskets on the ends that sift out dirt and small stones.
Lightweight pumps used to clear flooded basements, drain low spots after a heavy rain, etc. Used by farmers, boaters and campers as well as homeowners.
One type operates off a 12V battery and can be attached to a car, truck, tractor or boat battery.
Another type uses a standard 115V house current.
Most units pump from 250-500 gallons per hour and are self priming and easy to operate.
Undermounted Sinks (See bottom image) mount below the countertop.
Self-Rimming Sinks feature a rolled edge that mounts directly over the countertop. They are the most common and easiest to install.
Double sinks are the most common in new construction, with one bowl available for washing and one for rinsing dishes.
Single bowls are necessary in small kitchens with little counter space or can function as a second sink for meal preparation.
In triple sinks, the middle bowl is designed for the garbage disposal.
Shapes are rectangular or square; custom sinks can be round, oval or other shapes.
Standard size is 8″ deep; low-end sinks are only 5-7″ deep and top-quality sinks can go 10″ deep.
Sinks are constructed of many different materials including enameled steel, stainless steel, cast iron, brass, stone and composites such as quartz or granite combined with resin.
Enameled steel has a tendency to chip and is less durable than cast iron or stainless steel.
Stainless steel comes in different gauges; the lower the number, the thicker the steel. Thicker steel is less noisy, and undercoating can help dampen noise. Satin finish is the easiest to clean.
Other accessories for kitchen sinks include sliding cutting boards, clip-on colanders and custom dish drainers.
Propane comes in bright blue tanks and MAPP welding gas comes in yellow tanks.
Propane is generally used to heat copper for flaring. However, sometimes there is water in the line that needs to be evaporated so the pipe will heat enough to sweat a joint. Use MAPP gas, but use caution as too much heat can melt the pipe.
A large watertight settling tank that holds sewage while it decomposes by bacterial action.
Made of asphalt coated steel, redwood, concrete, concrete block, clay tile or brick.
Tanks must be sized to suit the house. Two bedroom homes need minimum 750 gallon tanks, according to the U.S. Public Health Service. Three bedroom homes need 900 gallon tanks and four bedroom homes require 1,000 gallon tanks. Garbage disposers, washing machines and dishwashers are figured in this estimate.
Household sewage flows into the septic tank anddecomposes. Sludge collects on the bottom of the tank and liquid effluent flows out to a distribution system. The distribution system is a series of underground disposal lines that radiate outward from a central distribution point; the effluent seeps into the earth.
Sludge remaining in the tank must be cleaned out periodically to prevent this layer from building up enough to cause clogging of disposal lines or household sewer lines.
Under ordinary use, the tank may need cleaning at two to four-year intervals, but most experts recommend that the sludge level be inspected every 12 to 18 months. Inspect by opening a special manhole cover or trapdoor located at or near ground level.
Septic tank cleaners dissolve sludge through enzyme activators that regenerate the natural bacterial activity of decomposition for which the tanks were designed. These natural bacterial activators continue from the tank into the drain and tile field.
Larger than all purpose pumps and often gasoline powered.
Used to pump manholes, for irrigation and lawn sprinkling, for fire protection and as an emergency water supply during power failure.
Capacities range up to 85 gallons per minute. Suction lifts up to 25′.
Another type is a high pressure, hand held utility pump that adds as much as 80 lbs. to intake pressure. It operates on 115V current, and when connected to a standard garden hose, can be used to hose down hard surface driveways and window screens, to wash cars and boats and to clean animal-housing areas. They will also draw water from shallow wells, tanks, etc.
Use to flare the end of a pipe before joining it with a flared fitting.
The two flat bars of the tool (the yoke) clamp around the pipe at the appropriate sized hole. Then the cone-shape, powered by the drive screw, forces its way into the pipe and creates a flare.
There will come a time when the project calls for sanding a surface to make it smooth. While there are plenty of hand sanding products you can use to get the job done, there’s nothing like a portable power sander to get it done fast and ensure a smooth finish.... Read More
Rigid copper pipe is good for new installation. Soft or flexible copper pipe is good for repair work since it can bend around obstacles without multiple cuts and joints.
Also known as a P.O. drain.
Uses an overflow opening to control draining in a tub.
Installed under sinks and tubs to route wastewater to the drain.
Economical and used in a variety of applications.
Used to connect a water supply line to a faucet fixture, toilet or appliances. Several types available.
Not treated for rust resistance.
PEX stands for crosslinked polyethylene.
Used for carrying low-pressure cold water. Common applications include golf course sprinklers, underground conduits or to carry corrosive liquids and gases.
Means Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene.
CPVC stands for Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride.
PVC stands for Polyvinyl Chloride.
Has zinc coating that prevents rust if not scratched.
Is a faucet located on the outside wall of the house that easily hooks to garden hoses.
Mounts either on laundry tubs or on the wall above the tub. Most fiberglass tubs require a ledge faucet with 4″ centers.
Often come in a combination style, where hot and cold mix in a single arm.
Usually combination style, where hot and cold mix in a single arm.
A washerless faucet.
Also known as a washer-type or stem faucet.
Also known as a washerless faucet.
Also known as a washerless faucet.
Used to clear stopped-up drains by chemical action.
An alternative to the auger, but not as effective in difficult blockages.
Also known as a toilet auger.
Also known as a snake.
Also known as a force cup or a plumber’s friend.
Achieves a watertight seal by tightening a nut, which compresses a ring onto the pipe.
Is closed on one end and either has male threads (for galvanized pipe) or no threads (for PVC and other solvent welded pipe.
Connects two lengths of pipe.
Also known as a repair plate.
Used to join copper pipe.
Most commonly used in steel fittings, but some plastic and copper fittings will be threaded.
Used for unthreaded plastic pipe
Operates the same as a compression fitting, but one end of the pipe is flared.
Sometimes used with flexible plastic pipe.
Any kind of fitting that helps connect two different types of tubing, such as copper and galvanized steel, or threaded and solvent weld, or two different sizes that are usually incompatible.
Is closed on one end and fits over end of pipe run to seal a run of pipe or a fitting.
Short lengths of flexible and soft plastic that is very flexible and forgiving.
Used to grasp pipes and other curved surfaces. Solid housings and hardened steel jaws provide excellent bite and grip.
Helps hold pipe when cutting or reaming pipe.
Removes burrs from the inside of the pipe. Burrs are the flakes of metal or plastic on the outside and inside of the pipe after the pipe is cut.
Used for cutting ABS, PVC and PE pipe.
Primarily used to cut copper pipe.
Uses a die head to create threads on unthreaded pipe ends
Does the same job as pipe joint compound, but is easier to use.
Glue used to weld together two pieces of plastic pipe.
Used in conjunction with pipe solvent.
Use in conjunction with pipe solvent and primer.
Helps hold pipe when cutting or reaming pipe.
Has a small opening on the non-pressure side to allow drainage when it is in cut-off position. Helps prevent freezing of water lines in winter.
Used when a valve must be opened and closed frequently under high water pressure.
Used to protect water heaters or hot water storage tanks.
Connects water supply to toilet.
A horizontal faucet with male hose threads on the outlet side and either male or female IPS threads on the inlet side.
Uses a large lever to turn a ball that closes or opens the flow of water with one quick quarter turn.
Also known as pipe dope.
Operates automatically, permitting flow in one direction only.
Used to shut on or off the water to a water supply tube.
Made of vitreous china and finished with a high-gloss glaze.
Activates the flush valve ball.
Located at the bottom of the tank.
Also called a Flush Valve Seat Ball, this device sits on the flush valve seat and attaches to the trip lever with a chain, rod or guide arm.
Also known as a fill valve or inlet valve.
Part of the Ballcock.
Creates a secure connection between the tank and the bowl.
Also known as a wax ring.
Made of plastic or kiln-dried hardwood.
Uses water pressure forced through a diverting valve to create one or more pulsating water actions.
A versatile wall and hand shower combined.
Can operate on either gas or electricity.
Can operate on either gas or electricity.
Used to remove bacteria and/or chemicals suspended in water to improve its taste and smell. Filters either install under the sink or at the point where the water supply enters the building (whole-house filters). Others mount on the faucet or countertop.
Used to discharge ground water that accumulates around a basement that is below the water line. The basement should have a drain tile around it to collect ground water and convey it to the sump in the basement.
Uses a sliding wedge to move across the waterway, in either a rising or non-rising action.
Also known as a faucet seat reamer or valve seat-grinding tool.
Also known as a faucet handle puller.
Consists of a pump, a pressure tank and switch.
Lightweight pumps used to clear flooded basements, drain low spots after a heavy rain, etc. Used by farmers, boaters and campers as well as homeowners.
Usually has full-range, adjustable sprays and features self-cleaning rims and swivel ball joints.
An attractive alternative to shower curtains.
Undermounted Sinks (See bottom image) mount below the countertop.
Repairs small leaks in pipes.
Can also be used to clean the copper pipe before sweating a joint.
Used on sink rims, drain plugs and faucets before installation.
Protects surrounding areas from the torch flame when sweating a joint.
Use to clean copper fittings before soldering.
Used to apply flux to a pipe.
Helps prevent oxidation and allows solder to flow freely.
Used to sweat a copper fitting.
Attaches to a propane torch.
Also known as an internal pipe wrench.
Also called expanding jawed pliers.
Used to remove pop-up or pop-out (PO) plugs from the drain opening in the basin.
Any length of pipe less than 12″ used to extend a run of pipe.
Changes the direction of the pipe, usually at a 45∫, 90∫ or 22-1/2∫ angle.
A large watertight settling tank that holds sewage while it decomposes by bacterial action.
Larger than all purpose pumps and often gasoline powered.
Used to heat joints in copper pipe so solder can melt.
Use to flare the end of a pipe before joining it with a flared fitting.
