Sealing your driveway too frequently could cause a build-up of sealer that could split and peel, which should split and peel. Always let the sealer on your driveway start to wear and fade before applying more. This will signal that it’s time for another coat.

The general rule is to leave at least 42” between the front edge of the counter top to the nearest table or island.

You can use a standard door jamb, if you wish, and mount the track on the face of the jamb. A better option may be to use a jamb specially designed for a bifold jamb. This jamb has the bifold door track hardware hidden in the jamb so it’s not exposed.

Yes. Dirt and debris such as limbs, leaves or pine straw can hold moisture that can cause mildew and damage to the roof.

It means priming the backside of the siding. You should also prime the cut edges so the wood is completely sealed from moisture.

Do this only if the old tile is in good condition. Most often, old ceiling tile is deteriorating and will not provide an adequate surface for gluing.

No. It will be easier to leave the old floor if you can. You will need to completely clean the old floor and fill in any low spots or embossed areas of the old floor. You can also cover the existing floor with a wood underlayment.

Type C gypsum board meets all of the requirements of Type X board, but it includes additional properties to enhance its fire resistance.

You can buy a plywood blade, specially designed with teeth to cut plywood.

Previously, pressure treated wood was treated with a chemical called CCA preservative, which was banned for residential uses in the U.S. at the end of 2003. ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary) is replacing CCA in most of the country (where Southern Pine is used) except the far west, where CA (copper azole) is more common (Hem-Fir and SPF are the most common species treated).

• Once the door is closed, the open ends of the V shape close together, with one end of the V touching the door and the other adhered to the door.
• Forms an airtight seal.
• Spring-metal tension strips are more difficult to install than adhesive-backed tension strips made of vinyl, but are the best permanent type.

• Also known as a café door.
• Hinged to attach to each side of the doorway and swing freely without a latch.
• Features two or three panels and is available in wood, PVC vinyl or insulated steel or fiberglass.
• Tends to be more secure and energy efficient than a sliding door and can be easily installed by the homeowner.

• Steel panels designed to cover the roof in place of shingles.
• Designed with either exposed or hidden fasteners.
• Metal roofing can be coated with zinc or a mixture of zinc and aluminum for rust prevention. The best steel panels are manufactured with zinc.

• Attaches to drywall, plaster or most any solid surface.
• Comes in three or more pieces that snap or caulk together for a leak-free fit.
• Inexpensive alternative to tile and good solution for keeping bathroom walls around the shower easy to clean.
• Don’t forget the caulk!

• Has a single sash hinged at the top.
• Opens at the bottom with a hand-turned crank.
• More durable than casement windows.
• One type is the basement utility window that is made with a block frame for easy installation in a masonry wall.
• Another type is the ranch unit, which has the window framed in a brick mold for installation in garages, cottages and utility buildings.
• Another type is the hopper window, where the window is hinged at the bottom.

• Used to trim out the ends of siding panels where they meet a door or window.
• Also used to cover cut edges of panels around windows and under the eaves.

• The trim used where the wall and ceiling meet.
• Common types include cove, crown, bed, attic and picture.
• Available in many different widths, from 1/2” to over 5”.
• Several types can be combined for more elaborate trim work.
• Picture molding is placed below the ceiling and traditionally was used to support a wire that held picture frames. Today, they are used mostly decorative than functional.

• Used to hold a gutter to the eave of the roof.
• The spike is inserted through the ferrule.
• The ferrule helps hold the width of the gutter constant throughout the run.

• Combines silicone with acrylic latex formulas for improved water resistance.
• This medium-performance, water-based caulk can withstand greater movement than acrylic latex.
• Can be used for interior or exterior with good adhesion, even to glass and ceramic tile.
• It also comes in a variety of colors as well as clear formulas.
• It applies easily (though best applied in temperatures above 40° F), is non-flammable, paintable, mildew-resistant and cleans with water.
• It endures moderate temperature changes, with a life expectancy of about 25-35 years.

• Fast acting thinner, cleaner and remover for resins, inks, adhesives and contact cement.
• Also used for thinning and cleaning fiberglass.
• A heavy degreaser, it can be used as a metal cleaner prior to painting.

• Some models are battery operated and are wireless. They are easiest to install.
• If not battery operated, they require AC step-down transformers to reduce household voltage to the proper operating voltage.
• Standard doorbells operate at 10V or 16V.

• Similar in appearance to a plug fuse.
• Provides a minimum time delay for small household motors that cause an electrical surge when started. That surge would cause a regular fuse to blow needlessly.

• Controls the amount of current in a light circuit and allows for varying levels of light.
• Usually may be installed in place of standard switches.
• They are available in a variety of types, including rotary, toggle and slide.
• Dimmers may also interfere with radios and TVs and cause the light bulb to hum. Some dimmers are manufactured with a filter that eases this problem.

• Like the table tap, it plugs into an existing outlet to increase the number of outlets at a location.
• It typically has four to six plugs.
• Some models may contain circuit breakers or surge protectors, but may not be suitable for computer equipment.

• Also known as Fustats® or Nontamperable
• Similar in design and use to a plug fuse. However, it prevents anyone from replacing a lower-rated fuse with a higher one.
• Has two parts: the fuse and the adapter. The adapter has a different diameter for each fuse ampere rating. Once the adapter of a particular size fuse has been inserted into the fuse socket, it cannot be removed. Only fuses with the same rating can be used in that socket.

• Also known as faceplates or covers.
• A flat metal, plastic or wooden piece that covers the openings in the wall made by receptacles and switches.
• The openings in the cover match the type and number or receptacles or switches being covered. Blank covers are also available.

• Two styles are available: Push button (less common) and toggle.
• Breakers can be single, double or thin.
• Contains a bi-metal strip that breaks the circuit when a current exceeds a predetermined rating.
• A breaker indicates a broken circuit when the switch is in the mid-point, or tripped, position.
• Reset the circuit breaker after correcting the overload problem. Switch it to the off position, then to the on position.
• Another type of circuit breaker is a screw-in type that looks similar to a fuse, but has a button on the top. The button pops out when the circuit is broken.

• Used to interrupt the flow of electricity on cords, most often for lamps and appliances.
• A variety of styles are available, and they can operate with a toggle, rotary or push-button action.

• Also known as a surge suppressor or a power strip.
• Achieves the same purpose of a tap, but has a cord that plugs into an outlet and a strip of outlets contained in a metal or plastic box.
• Better models have built-in surge protectors that protect electronic equipment from sudden surges of electricity.
• A surge protector does not protect against a lightning strike.

• Used for heavy-duty plugs and appliances.
• Contains vertical and slanted slots in various configurations.
• Configurations are different, so make sure to bring the plug with you if you don’t know the exact configuration you need.

With lamp wiring, there is a ribbed side and a smooth side. Unscrew the light switch. Strip and twist your wire. The ribbed side will go to the brass side of the light terminal. The smooth side will go to the silver side. Wrap around the terminals and tighten it down.

It’s a safety device that shuts off the power if a wire in an outlet develops a leak that could electrocute someone. This hazard is so serious that the National Electrical Code requires all new homes be equipped with them in the bathroom, kitchen, workroom, outdoor, basement, garage and swimming pool circuits.

This socket will have a regular contact tab inside, which all sockets have, plus another raised contact point.

The Department of Energy recommends R-values based on the type of fuel used and where you live. Generally, attics in homes heated by gas or oil in most southern locations should use R-19. For an electrically heated home in the same area, the recommendation is R-30. The minimum recommendation for homes in the coldest climates, regardless of heating method, is R-49.

You can use heat-shrink tubing. It’s designed to fit something half its size in diameter.

Only the first one in the series needs to be a GFI (ground fault interrupter).

Yes, it’s called a photoelectric nightlight.

These products are “double-insulated” and do not need the added protection of a grounding plug. You can plug them into ungrounded outlets and still be protected.

It’s best to use a rough service bulb.

An electrical device that shuts off the power in case of a short.

• Once the door is closed, the open ends of the V shape close together, with one end of the V touching the door and the other adhered to the door.
• Forms an airtight seal.
• Spring-metal tension strips are more difficult to install than adhesive-backed tension strips made of vinyl, but are the best permanent type.

• Also known as a café door.
• Hinged to attach to each side of the doorway and swing freely without a latch.
• Features two or three panels and is available in wood, PVC vinyl or insulated steel or fiberglass.
• Tends to be more secure and energy efficient than a sliding door and can be easily installed by the homeowner.

• Steel panels designed to cover the roof in place of shingles.
• Designed with either exposed or hidden fasteners.
• Metal roofing can be coated with zinc or a mixture of zinc and aluminum for rust prevention. The best steel panels are manufactured with zinc.

• Attaches to drywall, plaster or most any solid surface.
• Comes in three or more pieces that snap or caulk together for a leak-free fit.
• Inexpensive alternative to tile and good solution for keeping bathroom walls around the shower easy to clean.
• Don’t forget the caulk!

• Has a single sash hinged at the top.
• Opens at the bottom with a hand-turned crank.
• More durable than casement windows.
• One type is the basement utility window that is made with a block frame for easy installation in a masonry wall.
• Another type is the ranch unit, which has the window framed in a brick mold for installation in garages, cottages and utility buildings.
• Another type is the hopper window, where the window is hinged at the bottom.

• Used to trim out the ends of siding panels where they meet a door or window.
• Also used to cover cut edges of panels around windows and under the eaves.

• The trim used where the wall and ceiling meet.
• Common types include cove, crown, bed, attic and picture.
• Available in many different widths, from 1/2” to over 5”.
• Several types can be combined for more elaborate trim work.
• Picture molding is placed below the ceiling and traditionally was used to support a wire that held picture frames. Today, they are used mostly decorative than functional.

• Used to hold a gutter to the eave of the roof.
• The spike is inserted through the ferrule.
• The ferrule helps hold the width of the gutter constant throughout the run.

• Combines silicone with acrylic latex formulas for improved water resistance.
• This medium-performance, water-based caulk can withstand greater movement than acrylic latex.
• Can be used for interior or exterior with good adhesion, even to glass and ceramic tile.
• It also comes in a variety of colors as well as clear formulas.
• It applies easily (though best applied in temperatures above 40° F), is non-flammable, paintable, mildew-resistant and cleans with water.
• It endures moderate temperature changes, with a life expectancy of about 25-35 years.

• Fast acting thinner, cleaner and remover for resins, inks, adhesives and contact cement.
• Also used for thinning and cleaning fiberglass.
• A heavy degreaser, it can be used as a metal cleaner prior to painting.

A laminate countertop is inexpensive and resists stains. They are also very easy to install.

The door sill is part of the frame structure of the door and sits under the door jamb. The threshold sits on top of the sill and performs the duty of making the door weathertight.

A number of factors affect energy efficiency, including how the frame is built, the type of glass used, the type of low-emissivity coating on the glass and the weather stripping.

The biggest advantage is ease of maintenance. Vinyl does not rot, mold or need painting. Better quality vinyl siding incorporates insulation to raise the energy efficiency of your home.

First you will need to install furring strips over the masonry surface. Then, attach the paneling to the furring strips.

Choose grout color based on your design preference. For a uniform, blended look, use a color that complements the tile color. For a more dramatic, grid effect, chose a different color.

Buckling can be caused by improper installation, high humidity, using the wrong cushion or by moving heavy furniture. To correct the problem, remove all furniture from the room and have the carpet power stretched.

OSB has a tendency to expand and contract, although manufacturers have come out with better resins that have made them more and more stable. When installing OSB as a subflooring or roof decking, space the panels 1/4” apart.

Most quality domestic lumber is kiln dried to a moisture content of 6 percent to 8 percent.

The most important factor is to make sure you are buying the right joist hanger that fits the dimension of lumber are you using.

It’s a portable jigsaw that can perform many tasks, such as cutting curves and holes. However, it can’t handle heavy jobs. Some models have orbital blade action for a more aggressive cut. Another feature some people like is blower that keeps the cutting line visible and sawdust free.

This is what a sliding bevel T-sqaure is designed for. You don’t have to calculate the angle, using this tool you can just copy and transfer it to the piece you’re working on.

Use an abrasive wheel looks like a thin grinding wheel. It can also be used to cut fiberglass and light metal.

The four most common are belt sanders, finish sanders, orbital sanders and random orbital sander.

Your stapler does not have enough power to drive the staple into the hard surface. If you can, use a shorter staple or you will have to use a more powerful tool.

You can handle most of your needs with a ¼ inch model and one larger one—either a ¾ inch or inch.

Since all gas-powered equipment is noisy, some people prefer the electric models. The cordless models have run times of about one hour, which is generally sufficient for homeowners.

Convenient features on a planer include a dust hood to collect dust, reversible knives that are often inexpensive and disposable, infeed rollers to grab stock and help feed it through the machine and preset depth stops to make it easier to set to a desired thickness.

Tool boxes come in a variety of sizes and configurations. However, it sounds like you just need a basic plastic tool box to store a few tools and some fasteners. I would recommend a 19” model with one lift-out tray.

A flat file will work well. Just be sure to sharpen (redress) the blade using the existing angle or bevel of the mower blade. Also, try to remove as little metal as possible to make the blade last longer.

• Used for furniture upholstery and to drive small nails and tacks.
• Features a magnetic face used to hold small tacks. The other face is used to drive them.

• Used for general purpose work applications.
• Provides cut and abrasion resistance.
• Some styles are coated with a polymer to provide added protection or to provide a better grip.
• May be constructed of cotton, a cotton/polyester blend, synthetic fibers and high-performance fibers.

• Also called a rat-tail file.
• Cylinder shaped tool used to remove stock from round holes in order to make them larger or smoother.
• Also used to remove burrs from the inside of pipe.

• Also called circular snips.
• Feature long nose design.
• Used for cutting tight circles or other curved designs in either direction.

• Ready-to-use product that promotes adhesion and acts as a wetting agent.
• Gives excellent slip for matching patterns.
• Helps prevent seam pops.
• Eliminates water trays.

• Plastic or glass container with a spray nozzle.
• Attaches to the end of a hose.
• Best for jobs such as foliage feeding or applying fertilizers, insecticides or fungicides to lawns or gardens where large volumes are needed.
• Spray pattern is normally a wide fan for lawns.
• Uses a special attachment to prevent drift when spraying herbicides.
• Comes with an anti-siphon backflow protector to prevent harmful chemicals from backing up into the water supply.

• Used to push grout into spaces between tile.
• Consists of a handle with a thick foam rubber pad that is generally ¼” thick.

• Also called manual power staplers, this tool shoots a variety of staples (and many times brad nails) with a one-hand lever operation.
• Good for a variety of jobs requiring material to be held with one hand and fastened with the other, such as lining closets, installing insulation, tacking ceiling tile or fastening roofing paper.
• One new design features a handle that is squeezed toward the front instead of the rear, making it easier to use and control.
• Other models are designed to fasten a variety of materials, such as different types of wire, including telephone wire, heavy-duty wire and insulated wire, etc.
• Electric and cordless staple guns are also available. They have the same uses as the hand-operated guns but the staples are ejected automatically with the pull of a trigger.

• These are bar clamps designed with a pistol grip to allow the user to tighten or loosen the clamp instead of screwing it.
• Can be adjusted by using just one hand on a trigger switch.
• Perhaps the most significant innovation to come about recently in the area of clamps.
• Available in jaw openings from 6″ to 50″ and a variety of sizes

• Has large, chisel-shaped teeth, usually 5-1/2 teeth per inch, and is made to cut with the wood grain.
• Blade lengths measure from 24″ to 28″. • Teeth are cross-filed to ensure that the chisel point is set square to the direction of cutting for best performance.
• This saw is best held at a 60º angle to the surface of the board being cut. The ripping action of the saw produces a coarse, ragged cut that makes the saw unsatisfactory for finish work.

• Small metal circles that provide a hard surface against which you tighten a screw.
• It matches the size of the screw it is being used with.
• Comes in flat, countersunk or flush shapes.

• Made of high-strength spring steel or of aluminum with a stainless steel pin for use in hard materials.
• Driven into a hole where it is compressed and forced against the walls of the hole.
• Comes in three head styles: round, countersunk and stud. The stud type provides temporary attachment of items that must later be removed.

• Used to temporarily link chain and couple light attachments.
• Do not use for securing loads.
• One type is the Lap Link.
• Another type is the Quick Link, which is similar to the lap link, but not as strong.

• Includes metal plates and braces specifically designed for use as reinforcement in a variety of applications.
• Available in an assortment of sizes, shapes and finishes.
• Specific items include t-plates, corner braces, mending plates, triple corner braces and chair leg braces.
• Can be packaged with or without mounting hardware.

• Allows furniture to move easily along the floor. Also protects floor from scuffing.
• The three-prong type is hammered into the legs of light furniture. It is easy to install and easy to remove.
• The cushion type is for heavier use and is mounted by hammering into the furniture leg.
• A cushion glide for caster holes is the best type for heavy furniture. Here, the socket replaces normal stem-type casters.
• Some glides have a tilting stem with a 40° range of movement. These glides are made for furniture with angled legs so that the base of the glide sits flat on the floor.
• Other types of glides include rubber leg tips and heavy-duty, self-adhesive nylon or felt pads.

• Includes a variety of latches, strikes and pulls available as original or replacement hardware for screen and storm doors.
• Some latches have keyed locks.
• Most are designed for easy installation and are weather-resistant.
• Most are designed for specific types of doors (wood vs. aluminum) and door thicknesses.

• Screw-shanked.
• Used for laying tongue-and-groove hardwood flooring.

• Rod with continuous thread from one end to the other.
• Available in different diameters.
• Used where extra-long bolts are required.
• Can be bent to make U-bolts, eye bolts and J-bolts.

• Used inside drilled holes to provide anchors in the hole for lag bolts as they are wrenched into the shield.
• As the screw enters the shield, the shield expands and grips the interior.
• Horizontal fins prevent the shield from turning in the hole while tapered ribs ease insertion and ensure against slips.

• Attaches directly to a welded chain.
• Used as a temporary chain connector.
• Eliminates the need for an additional attachment or fitting.
• The Slip Hook type looks like a large fishhook.
• The Grab Hook type has a narrower opening.

Working strength is the most important factor.

The main difference is that a sheet metal screw has threads along its entire length. A wood screw has threads along about two-thirds of its length and costs a little less.

Drill proper size hole and insert bolt. Don’t forget that you have to insert bolt through the item you are fastening to the wall. Collapse the toggle and push bolt through the hole until the toggle springs open. Now, tighten the bolt to complete the anchoring.

Use a lid support hinge.

Depending on the construction of the homemade ones, they are probably more durable and can be conveniently folded and stored out of the way.

Let’s look to see if it’s a metric size.

You can use small nails—called brads—but to help prevent the wood from splitting, you should pre-drill the holes.

No. Toggle bolts are designed for hanging things from a ceiling, where weight is distributed across the toggle. For a wall, it’s best to use one of the newer kinds of plastic anchors. One has a self-drilling head that can be driven either with a screwdriver or a power tool.

A piano hinge is a good choice.

In most cases they are a 6 – 32.

A stick-on foam tape works well on aluminum, but it must be applied when the surface is warm and dry.

Yes, simply remove the old thermostat from the wall. Next, disconnect each one and mark it so you can keep track of where it was connected. Attach the new thermostat to the wall and attach the old wires.

I would recommend a pile-type weatherstipping. It is designed to allow the sash to slide back and forth. It is usually installed at the top and bottom of a sliding window track.

No. Larger tank sizes merely mean you won’t have to refill them as often.

Actually, since they catch more particulates they typically last a shorter amount of time. Always check the manufacture’s recommendations.

The Department of Energy recommends R-values based on the type of fuel used and where you live. Generally, attics in homes heated by gas or oil in most southern locations should use R-19. For an electrically heated home in the same area, the recommendation is R-30. The minimum recommendation for homes in the coldest climates, regardless of heating method, is R-49.

First measure the attic floor area, and then divide that by 1,000. For example, if the dimensions are 30’ x 40’, or 1,200 square feet, you divide that number by 1,000 and get 1.2. The label on the bag of insulation will tell you how many bags you need to cover 1,000 square feet. Multiply that number by 1.2.

Certain types of humidifiers such as the ultrasonic humidifier should be used with distilled water. If not, the humidifier could leave a sticky, white dust around the house. It could also contribute to elevated levels of bacteria residue and mold particles in the air.

Normal time periods are one month to three months.

Use a baffle in each rafter cavity that contains a soffit vent.

• Used to connect the stove with the chimney. Never use in place of a chimney.
• Should be 24-gauge metal or thicker (the smaller the number, the thicker the metal).
• Should be as short as possible and turns kept to a minimum.
• Inspect stovepipe regularly and replace every two or three years.

• Removes excess moisture from the air by blowing humid air over cold evaporator coils in a refrigerator system.
• Moisture collects in a pan, and the unit will automatically shut off when the pan is full.
• A humidistat controlling the dehumidifier will respond to changes in moisture content and is necessary for efficient energy consumption.

• Uses a HEPA filter as well as ultraviolet light rays to clean air.
• Also acts as a germ killer to remove virus, mold and bacteria from the air.
• Some units have a pre-filter as the first line of defense against larger particles. It is the less expensive filter and extends the life of the more expensive HEPA filter.

• Operates with the chimney damper closed, thus preventing heat-loss.
• Has an adjustable input with a maximum of 40,000 BTUs.
• Any unit made after 1980 includes an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) that shuts off the heater and flow of gas if the oxygen level in a room becomes inadequate.
• Another safety feature is an automatic shut-off valve to shut off the gas flow if the pilot light is extinguished or the gas flow is interrupted.
• Made of high-temperature, heat-resistant ceramic or cement in a variety of finishes.
• Placed directly on the fire grate or lays on a flame pan covered with a bed of volcanic granules for a more realistic looking fire.
• Requires no electricity to operate.
• Fits into fireplaces with a gas hookup and can be installed into any UL-listed, solid fuel burning fireplace or in an
• American Gas Association (AGA) design-certified, vent-free fireplace listed for use.

• Portable, wood or wood-pellet burning heat source that can be used at home, on the patio or on the camping trip.
• Some can also be used as a grill.
• Some styles are enclosed and vent through the sides while others may include a chimney.
• Another variation is the firepit, which is bowl-shaped.

• Cools, circulates, filters and dehumidifies the air.
• Ranges in size from small units with a cooling capacity of 5,000 BTUs (enough to cool a small room) to capacities as high as 12,500 BTUs.
• It is important that you choose the right size of air conditioner. An oversize unit will cool but leave a damp and clammy feeling because of high relative humidity. An undersized unit will not operate effectively on very hot days.
• Select by BTU rating, not horsepower. BTU is the actual cooling capacity of the unit.
• Determine the efficiency of the unit by dividing the watt rating into the BTU output. The unit must have an energy efficiency rating (EER) of at least 9.7 for models under 8,000 BTU/hr and 9.8 for larger models. The most efficient models have an EER of 11 and higher. Each model should have its EER clearly marked.
• Most models should include window-mounting kits. Kits include sill brackets for extra support of the unit and side vents to ensure an airtight fit in the window.
• Make sure the unit is designed for the type of window you have. Most are designed for double-hung windows, but some are made or casement windows or for in-wall installation.

• Use an ionizer to clean air by charging molecules of air, which helps make indoor air more refreshing.
• Ionizer technology in an air cleaner can also reduce static electricity and improve the filter’s efficiency.

• Requires a venting system and a smoke dome or chimney, installed on the roof.
• Operate at a range of 60,000 to 90,000 BTUs and loose heat as they require the chimney damper to be open.
• Made of high-temperature, heat-resistant ceramic or cement in a variety of finishes.
• Place directly on the fire grate or lay on a flame pan covered with a bed of volcanic granules for a more realistic looking fire.
• Requires no electricity to operate.
• Fits into fireplaces with a gas hookup and can be installed into any UL-listed, solid fuel burning fireplace.

• Ideal for those with little space to store wood or with the time to maintain a wood stove. Also better for heating smaller areas.
• Uses natural gas so it is a reliable heat source when the power goes out.
• Flame height and heat intensity is easily adjustable.
• The direct vent type is ideal for homes without an existing chimney.

• Used to cool a small space, usually 400 to 450 square feet.
• Mounted on wheels for easy movement from room to room.
• Contains both the hot and cold side of the air conditioner in one unit. Is not permanently installed, but must be connected to some place like a window where the hot air can be vented. Most models contain window-venting kits that are easy to install and easily moved from one window to another.
• May be either single or dual vent. Dual vent models circulate clean air back into the room and generally cool more quickly than single vent models.
• Drip models have a tray that will need to be emptied every 24-48 hours. No-drip models may cost more but do not produce any excess moisture.

Yes, there are wireless door chimes that are fairly easy to install.

These locks provide more security as the deadbolt latch is larger and protrudes farther into the door frame. It can also be keyed on both sides for additional security.

Yes, since 1990 all garage doors are required to have an optical sensor and/or a door edge sensor that will stop or reverse the door.

Yes, there are a variety of timers that simply plug in.

Some locks come in pairs that use the same key.

If you have a gas or oil furnace, dryer, refrigerator, water heater, space heater, fireplace, wood stove or gas range, then you need to be concerned. These can all be sources of carbon monoxide gas.

Check the transformer. You will have to find it. It might be in the attic, but it can be anywhere, you just need to trace the wire. If it makes a humming sound when the button is pushed, your problem is probably the chime. If it doesn’t make a sound, I would change the transformer to see if that’s the problem.

An ionization fire alarm is designed to detect a smoldering fire more quickly than a photoelectric smoke detector will. It should be used in rooms where there is a lot a carpet and upholstery, such in in living rooms, family rooms and bedrooms. Ionization smoke detectors are designed to detect flaming fires, that are more likely to start in kitchens and garages.

There are three components to the doorbell, the button, the transformer and the bell itself. First, look for any loose wires throughout the system. If all the wires are connected, test the doorbell button by removing it and touching the two wires together. If this makes the doorbell work, you have a bad button that it easily replaced.

The safest recommendation is to put one in every room, but most people are not willing to do this. The simplest rule is to mount one between the bedrooms and the rest of the house, but closer to the bedrooms. If there is more than one sleeping area, each should have its own alarm. In multi-level homes, install one on each level, and if possible have them interconnected so any one unit will sound the alarm throughout the house. The basement ceiling, near the steps, is a good location for extra protection.

• Detects radon, a colorless, odorless, radioactive gas formed wherever there is uranium, an element present throughout the crust of the earth. It poses little risk if it makes its way to open air, but if it seeps into a house, it can collect in hazardous concentrations.
• This detector consists of a small sheet of plastic. Alpha particles that strike the plastic cause microscopic pockmarks.
• After an exposure period, users mail the detector to a lab. The lab’s count of the pockmarks gives a direct measure of the mean radon concentration.
• Another type uses activated-charcoal granules, which trap radon gas. After an exposure time, the container is resealed and shipped back to a lab for analysis.

• Two doorknobs that can be locked from both the inside and the outside.
• One type locks from the inside by turning or depressing a small button, while a key must unlock the outside knob.
• Some models must be locked with a key on both the inside and outside.
• In other models, only the inside knob can lock or unlock both sides of the set.
• A medium security entrance-door lock.
• A quality feature on entry locksets is a deadlatch.

• Plugs into a standard outlet.
• Samples air continuously for radon and provides updated reading on the display.
• Alarm sounds when the long-term average of radon level passes an acceptable level.
• Alarm will be repeated until the radon level drops back to the accepted level.

• Used only for decoration or applications that do not need a latch.
• Has no latching mechanism and does not turn.
• Available in a wide variety of styles and finishes.

• Detects carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless, deadly gas that poses a potentially deadly health risk to people.
• Measures the amount of carbon monoxide over time and sounds an alarm before people would experience symptoms.
• Operates on batteries or can be plugged in.
• Some models provide a running digital readout of CO levels.
• Hard-wired or plug-in models typically use some type of solid-state sensor, which purges itself and resamples the air periodically. That cycle increases the power demand.
• Battery-powered detectors typically use a passive sensor. They will operate even in case of a power failure.
• Available in combination units that have CO and smoke detectors in the same unit.

• An interior lockset.
• Designed for privacy rather than for security.
• Has a locking button on the inside knob but no key device on the outside knob.
• Can be either a knob or a lever.
• In an emergency, the lock can be opened from the outside by inserting a narrow object through the small hole in the outside knob and either depressing or turning the locking mechanism inside, depending on the type of lock.
• Available in a wide variety of styles and finishes.

• Used primarily by large commercial firms.
• The alarm sounds when the temperature rises to a certain level.
• Most are also triggered by a quick rise in temperature even if an extreme temperature is not reached.
• Not as safe as other types of fire detectors as fire usually must be intense before the thermal unit will sound.

• An interior lockset used inside the home in hallways or closets between rooms where privacy is not important.
• Has two, non-locking knobs, one on each side of the door. Some models use levers instead of knobs.
• Available in a wide variety of styles and finishes.

• Uses a small lamp adjusted to direct a narrow light beam across the detection chamber. Smoke entering the chamber scatters this light beam, causing it to hit a sensor and set off the alarm.
• Usually more sensitive to smoke from a slow, smoldering fire than an ionization detector, but reacts less quickly to flaming fires.
• Available in both battery-operated and plug-in versions.

• Used to secure standing trailers by rendering the towing device inoperable.
• Locks cover or fill the coupler socket so it cannot be mounted on a ball.

There are many different types that perform well, and others that don’t perform well at all. Eventually, debris will get into the gutter. So the best type of gutter cover is probably one that can easily be removed for periodic removal of debris.

For a mulching or self-propelled mower, you need plenty of horsepower so look for one that has a 5 to 6 horsepower engine.

I don’t have the education to fully understand the specific chemicals used in these products, so I am not certified to make those types of recommendations.  It’s best to find a pesticide that is specifically designed for your current needs.

Yes, you need to know the brand, width of the cut and whether it is a mulching mower. Some blades come with adapter kits that allow them to be used on different brands.

There are sprays that have a range of 20’ so that you can stand far away and still be effective. Some sprays leave a foam so that returning pests will also be killed.

Don’t apply liquid fertilizer at the same time you plant. Some root hairs will break, and the fertilizer will burn them. Wait 2 to 3 weeks after planting before you fertilize. In general, apply fertilizers to plants at the beginning of the growing season. For deciduous trees fertilize when leaves appear; and for evergreens, when it turns cold. Shrubs do not require much fertilizing.

A coil hose is probably your best option.

A metal rake usually has more spring and is better suited for large areas. It is easier to clean around flowerbeds, shrubs and bushes and does not rake up essential thatch in a lawn.

Groups of bulbs make a much nicer show. To create greater color impact in the garden, plant clusters of same-color flowers together in blocks or “bouquets.” Generally, larger bulbs should be planted 3 to 6 inches apart, smaller bulbs 1 to 2 inches apart.

Use a water meter or gauge to monitor water levels.

• Used for a variety of lawn and garden cutting applications.
• Uses a cam located between the handles with an off-center pivot that increases the cutting efficiency.
• Reduces the effort required to squeeze the handles.
• Designed for one-handed use.
• Has a safety lock or catch to hold blades together while not in use.

• Has a wide head braced with brackets attached to the handle.
• Used for spreading dirt, gravel and sand.

• Usually gasoline powered, but electric and cordless models are also available.
• Has an endless chain of cutting teeth that moves at high engine speeds.
• For cutting and trimming trees and shrubs.
• Blades sizes typically range from 12” to 36” long.
• Engines are typically two-cycle, requiring a blend of oil and gas.
• Standard features on many models include chain brakes forincreased operator safety, a blade guard and automatic oilers.
• Other features may include carrying cases and large, cushioned anti-vibration handles to reduce the strain on the user.

• A bin used to make compost.
• Comes in a variety of sizes and shapes. Should use at least a 27 cu. ft. in size to ensure it retains enough heat to spur the compost development.
• Compost is the process of converting waste material into a type of synthetic manure.
• Compost may contain leaves, grass clippings, prunings, straw, spoiled hay, coffee grounds, eggshells, paper and wood ash that decompose through bacterial action.
• Due to its fertilizing value, compost can be spread on the lawn in the fall or on the garden at any time during the growing season.

• Spreads precise seed and fertilizer spreading over smaller areas.
• Dispenses material with the pull of a lever.
• Takes longer than the broadcast spreader to complete a task, but offers more precision.
• Typically spreads in an 18” to 22” path.
• Includes flow settings to adjust for all sizes of seed and granules.
• Hopper capacity varies with model.

• Available in a wide variety of styles in plastic and metal construction.
• Effective for small lawn or garden areas.
• Most portable watering device and easy to use indoors and in tight places.

• Also called a floral hoe.
• Used for weeding, cultivating and aerating.
• Pushed rather than pulled into the ground.
• Blade slides just below the surface to cut weeds.
• Handle is attached to the rear of the blade at a shallow angle.

• Also called a tilling spade.
• Used for digging ditches.
• The top of the blade may have a turned lip called the foot pedal.
• May have a D handle or long handle.

• For pruning, shaping and maintaining houseplants.
• Usually operates with a scissor action.

Cooking grates are used in grills. This is what the food is placed on so that it doesn’t fall into the fire/burners. Some grills have multiple shelving options for food that needs to be close to or away from the heat.

Yes. There are several do-it-yourself test kits that are approved by the EPA. Go to www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/kits.htm for a listing of test kits that have been approved. Approved test kits generally come with verification cards, while many non-approved test kits don’t.

Different types of paint with have different amounts of solids and resins in it. Some even come with warranties from 15 years to a lifetime.

It refers to how shiny the paint is. Manufacturers use terms such as flat, satin, semi-gloss and high-gloss to describe their paint, but there are no specific industry standards.

Straight-cut paint brushes are traditional and have been used for centuries. While both provide good coverage, angled paint brushes cover a bigger surface area in one stroke. They also allow you to cut in on corners to provide a smoother, cleaner edge.

Semi-transparent stains provide a color to the wood, but still allow the texture and natural grain to show through. Solid-color stains allow the texture to show, but not the grain.

Always check the paint can for specific recommendations. But for general guidelines, you want the paint to dry evenly, so try to paint in the shade and when the temperature is between 60 degrees and below 90 degrees. Also, avoid windy days because they might make the paint dry too quickly or blow debris onto your wet paint.

Price matters. The more expensive it is, the better performance you will get. You want to understand the types of binders and solids in your paint because they affect the coverage.

Less expensive paints may only cover up to 200-feet, but more expensive ones will go further with fewer coats.

These paints have resins and thinners in them that evaporate when the paint dries. This process forms a hard coating and provides heavier coverage on the first coat, effective penetration and excellent adhesion. They are particularly good for chalky surfaces and those that already have several layers of oil-based paint.

The difference lies in the amount of pigment in each. Transparent stains, although they appear clear, have some pigment in them for UV protection. Semi-transparent stains have more pigment, but still allow some of the wood grain to show through. Solid stains are basically like paint. They hide most of the wood’s character, but they offer the best protection from moisture and UV rays. The general rule is that the more pigment in the stain, the better protection it will provide.

Generally, from two to four coats, applied in thin layers.

• Can be added to either oil-based or latex paints for a variety of reasons—to keep edges wet longer, to prevent lapping, to allow the paint to cover better or to lessen drag on the paint applicator.
• Conditioners also lessen paint clogging in spraying systems.
• Some additives are designed to give latex some of the better qualities of oil-based paints.

• Placed in bucket to remove excess paint from applicators before applying to surface.
• Generally used with smaller rollers.
• Similar to a wire screen or grid in construction.
• Has a flexible hanger that fastens over bucket rim.

• Used in marbling technique, in which a base layer of white or color is dabbed on with a damp sponge, and then a second glaze of a different color is applied the same way, causing the two colors to “marble.”
• The feather provides the “veined” look.
• Marbling is often done with fireplace mantles.

• Available in either dry or pliable form.
• Repairs cracks, dents, breaks and holes in furniture, wood and concrete floors, woodwork, metal and other interior surfaces.
• In dry form (known as water putty because water must be added), it dries to the shade of new wood but can be tinted with dry color. It sets rapidly, cannot be reworked, dries hard and can be sanded, tooled and finished like wood.
• Pliable Putty (also known as wood putty because it is made from hardwood) is rubbed on wood surfaces before painting to close pores in certain woods such as oak, mahogany, walnut, chestnut, elm, butternut, hickory, ash, rosewood and satinwood. It is not synonymous with patching materials, which fill holes or cracks in finished or unfinished surfaces.
• Most wood putties come in paste form and must be thinned; the container label tells which thinner to use. Putty is brushed on, rubbed, sanded and sealed before finishing.
• Wood putties are available in water-based form, allowing greater safety, rapid drying and less shrinkage. All wood putty patches must be sanded flush with the old surface. Patches can be stained, painted or varnished.

• Is available in oil-based, water-based and gel formulations.
• The two major types of wood stains are semi-transparent and solid-color (opaque), where the essential difference between the two is that semi-transparent stains impart color, but the texture and the natural grain of the wood continues to show through; while on solid-color stains, the texture still shows through, but not the grain itself.
• Interior stains, used for furniture and woodwork, come in either pigmented or dye categories. Both can have oil, synthetic or water bases. Pigmented stains color the wood with the same type of pigments used in paint. They range in color from almost clear to semi-transparent. They are easy to apply—usually brushed on or wiped on with a rag, then wiped off enough to control the depth of the stain. They leave no brush or lap marks if applied properly.
• Exterior stain is used primarily on wood siding and shingles, decks, outdoor structures and furniture. It is also available in latex and oil-based formulas. Oil-based stains penetrate the wood, and they erode with weathering. Latex stains do not typically fade as rapidly.
• Stains may or may not protect the wood; check manufacturers’ labels. An oil or polyurethane finish can be mixed with the stain, so the do-it-yourselfer can complete the staining and finishing job in one step.
• Wood stain pens will hide minor scratches, nicks and chips on furniture and wood.

• Is a paint with aluminum blended with a resin base.
• For interior and exterior use on heated surfaces, such as ovens, barbecue grills, mufflers and other surfaces that are exposed to high heat.
• It works equally well on almost any surface and may be brushed or sprayed. Colors become more intense with age.
• Aluminum paint can be used on all interior and exterior metal or wood surfaces, or applied to metal flashing, gutters, downspouts, tools, tool sheds, patio furniture, pipes, mailboxes, fences, etc.
• Do not apply aluminum paint during freezing temperatures; paint should dry at least overnight before recoating.

• A varnish-impregnated, open-mesh cloth that picks up and holds loose dirt, lint, sand and other foreign particles adhering to wood, metal, plaster and other surfaces.
• Used to clean surfaces immediately before applying each coat and between sanding.

• Used with rag rolling technique to achieve effects similar to crushed velvet, parchment, chamois leather, watered silk or brocade.
• As with sponging, ragging begins with application of a coat of paint in a solid color and allowing it to dry. A crumpled cloth is then used to add glaze in another color.
• To rag-roll, a cloth is rolled into a sausage shape of varying tightness, then lightly dipped into the glaze and rolled gently across the base coat.
• Ragging and rag-rolling results vary according to the cloth material used. Linen, lace and burlap are common choices, but almost any material will do if it is clean and free of lint.
• Can also be used with a negative method, which involves applying a base coat, then a glaze coat. A rag is then rolled over the glaze to remove some of it before it has a chance to dry, partially exposing the color of the base coat.

• Is a quick-setting white powder used to repair wallboard, plaster walls and ceilings, set bathroom wall fixtures—towel racks, soap dishes, etc.—and for art projects.
• It usually hardens within 30 minutes.
• No more water than necessary should be added; when water evaporates, the plaster shrinks.

• Used when painting large areas with the same color or painting intricate surfaces such as furniture or grillwork where other tools will not reach all surfaces.
• Airless sprayers eject paint at high pressure. An electric airless paint system consists of a paint container, high-pressure pump, motor, handle and housing and pressure regulator. Extension nozzles, longer suction tubes, extra nozzles and viscosity measuring cups are optional accessories.
• Choice of spraying tip depends on paint consistency, but generally the thinner the paint, the smaller the tip needed. Paint consistency also governs pump pressure. Thinner materials such as stains, lacquers, enamels and sealers require less pressure than heavier materials such as house and wall paint.
• Paints that have been formulated for brush or roller application may be too thick for spraying. They should be tested first and thinned if necessary.

By opening the valve it prevents the washer inside the valve from getting damaged by excessive heat when soldering.

First, try using a plunger. Second, try using a liquid drain opener, but use caution and read directions. Third, you can remove the trap. Be careful if you have used a liquid drain opener because there may be some in the trap. Fourth, if the clog is beyond the trap, we have drain augers that extend from about 15 feet to about 50 feet.

Plastic will usually last much longer than chrome, but you have to be careful because it can be affected by some harsh chemicals in drain cleaners.

No. They are permanently joined and cannot be taken apart.

To adjust the water level on a toilet with modern tank components, there is a lock ring or pinch clamp that allows you to raise or lower the float on the fill valve. On toilets with older fill valves, you can simply bend the float arm down to lower the water level or up to raise it.

It is made of rubber, plastic or paper and is the component that seals the joints in fittings and valves. It is sometimes available in liquid form.

It cleans the surface prior to soldering. It prevents the oxidation of the metal. And it allows the solder to flow freely.

In some torches, the liquid propane in an upside down tank works its way through the torch and blows out the flame. To avoid this, use a pressure regulated torch.

Yes. You must first remove all existing water in the line before soldering. Water cools the pipe, which doesn’t allow it to heat up to the proper soldering temperature. A propylene torch can help with this because it burns hotter. The best measure to take is to remove all water from the pipe before soldering. Stuff a ball of white bread (Wonder Bread works great) into the pipe to stop water. Then, after you soldering the fitting and turn the water back on, purge the line of the bread through the nearest exterior hose bib. Plumbers have used this trick for years.

The anti-siphon protection prevents the toilet tank water from getting into your home water supply system.

• Economical and used in a variety of applications.
• Usually joined with pressure fittings and clamps.

• Also known as a washerless faucet.
• Uses a rubber diaphragm or two metal, plastic or ceramic discs with holes that align to let the water flow or close to shut off the water flow. Ceramic plates are more difficult to damage than rubber seats, but hard water can sometimes cause problems with the ceramic cartridges, such as squeaking or sticking.
• Single-handle faucets that use stainless steel ball design have just one moving part and are a durable alternative.
• Reduces leakage problems that result from worn washers.
• Easy to repair because most new models have the water-control mechanism housed in a replaceable cartridge.
• Replacing a cartridge is an easy do-it-yourself project, compared to working on conventional faucets. Most faucets that offer this convenience are labeled “self-contained cartridge.”

• Any kind of fitting that helps connect two different types of tubing, such as copper and galvanized steel, or threaded and solvent weld, or two different sizes that are usually incompatible.
• A dielectric fitting connects pipe of dissimilar metals (such as copper and galvanized metal) to prevent corrosion in the copper pipe.
• Two main types, reducers and bushings, are used to convert from one size to another.

• Used to protect water heaters or hot water storage tanks.
• When the water pressure reaches a dangerous level, the valve opens and discharges water. Cold water then flows into the tank and stabilizes the water pressure.

• Uses water pressure forced through a diverting valve to create one or more pulsating water actions.
• In most cases, users can vary the amount of pulsing pressure or force to their liking.
• Available in hand-held or permanently mounted models. While all offer massaging action of one or more kinds, they can all be easily converted to conventional shower action.

• Used on sink rims, drain plugs and faucets before installation.
• Ensures a good seal.

• Used to connect a water supply line to a faucet fixture, toilet or appliances. Several types available.
• Plastic type is flexible and inexpensive but not designed for exposed connections.
• Ribbed chrome type bends easily without kinking.
• Braided type features pre-attached connector nuts at both ends and can be flexed to fit.
• Chrome-plated copper or brass tubes are more rigid than other types and are good for exposed applications.
• The most common size is 3/8″, with lengths ranging from 6″ to 72″.

• Used to clear stopped-up drains by chemical action.
• Most liquid drain cleaners are heavier than water and will seek out the stoppage, even if the sink, tub or bowl is full of water.
• Cleaners are typically a combination of potassium hydroxide, which turns grease to soft soap, and thioglycolic acid, that dissolves hair. Others may contain sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid or lye.
• Toxic liquids should carry warnings and must be used with caution.

• Is closed on one end and fits over end of pipe run to seal a run of pipe or a fitting.
• Either has female threads (for galvanized pipe) or no threads (for copper, PVC and other solvent welded pipe).

• Connects water supply to toilet.
• Flexible types are easiest to install.

• A common type is a variable-speed, reversible drywall screwdriver. It is designed for driving drywall, decking and other self-drilling screws. They offer higher speeds than a power drill.
• A cordless, in-line screwdriver is handy for light-duty household applications. They have less power and speed than a power drill, but are easier to handle.

• Used to power pneumatic tools such as nailers, sprayers and pressure washers.
• Rated on cubic feet per minute of air volume output (cfm), pounds per square inch of air pressure input (psi) and horsepower (hp). The higher the ratings on any of these, the more versatile the compressor.
• The most important rating is the cfm, because it indicates the amount of air volume needed to operate various tools. Match the cfm rating on the compressor to the cfm rating on the tool when buying a compressor.
• Compact or portable compressors use a diaphragm-type compression pump powered by an electric motor. They are best used for light applications such as inflation or light spray painting.
• Piston-type compressors use an electric or gasoline motor to drive the pump unit. They offer durability and high work capacity.

• Used to square up, resize or smooth wood in width or thickness. Best for larger flat surfaces.
• Performs the job of a hand plane, but faster and better.
• A variation is a planer-jointer, which performs additional operations such as tapering, beveling and grooving. The planer finishes edges.

• Has a belt that is narrower than a typical belt sander, making it ideal for sanding in tight places.
• Easy to maneuver.
• With a bench stand accessory, it can mount on a table top and is good for sanding smaller pieces.

• A portable source for electricity that runs on gasoline, diesel fuel, LP gas or natural gas.
• Wattage outputs range from 1,850 to 8,000 watts.
• To select the right generator for your needs, total the wattage of the items you need to run at the same time. This will be the minimum wattage needed in a generator.
• Most models usually include two or three different outlets or receptacles to operate 12V DC and 115V AC current as well as 240V AC current.

• Has an angled head designed for tight fits and close-quarter drilling.
• Available in 3/8” or 1/2” sizes.
• Some models feature an angle attachment that rotates the drill into any position, while a side handle allows one-hand operation and easy control.

• Circular blade used for working with plywood or hardwood.
• Lasts up to 10 times longer than regular blades.
• Do not use on masonry or material with nails.

• Used to smooth the edges of wood and help remove warps.
• Can cut flat surfaces.
• Size is determined by length of the tool’s knives. Most common size is 6”.
• Often combined with a planer.

• Also known as a carbide-tipped bit.
• Used in electric drills, drill presses or hand drills for drilling holes in brick, tile, cement, marble and other soft masonry materials.
• Some versions have a titanium nitride-coated tip.
• Feature two machined in spiral threads, one for each cutting edge, to provide passageways for all dust and cuttings from the bottom of the hole.
• Diameters of carbide tips are the same as the full diameter of the body.

• Most commonly used circular blade.
• Used for cross-cutting, ripping and mitering in hardwood, softwood, veneer and plywood.
• Does not leave a smooth finish.

• Is a portable specialty bench that comes as a tabletop or folding bench.
• The folding benches offer easy storage and a firm, broad base.
• Many models come with a tabletop clamping device to secure work piece to the table and hold irregular pieces securely.

• Tool that mounts on a workbench or table to hold work pieces securely in place between two flat jaws.
• Generally used in light-duty applications.
• Available in both stationary and swivel models to hold work at various angles and positions.
• A threaded spindle opens and closes the jaws of the vise to hold and release work piece.
• Generally has jaws ranging in length from 3″ to 8″.
• Jaw opening ranges from 4” to 12” in different models.

• Folding ladder that pulls down from attic access hole to permit entry.
• 3 sections unfold to rest on floor, then fold back up to store on top of pull-down access door. Generally made of wood or aluminum.
• 90-degree wrap-around hinges allow legs to completely fold up when not in use.
• Different models accommodate different floor-to-ceiling height ranges.
• Steps are usually double riveted for extra durability.
• Generally rated either at 250 lbs. or 300 lbs.

• Also called Locking “C”-Clamp or welder’s pliers.
• A unique type of clamp ideal for holding work while welding.
• Typical jaw opening sizes range from 2-1/8″ to 8.”

• Also called a combination ladder.
• 3-position, multi-lock hinges offer many different arrangements and combinations to become a step ladder, an extension ladder, a stairway ladder (modified step ladder) or a scaffold.
• No tools needed for conversion between ladder types.
• Most models extend between 12’ and 16’ and carry either a 225 lb. or a 250 lb. duty rating.

• Three-way clamp resembling a C-Clamp with a third screw located in the middle of the throat.
• Used to apply pressure at a right angle to the side of the work surface.
• Commonly used for installing molding and trim on furniture and countertops.

• A non-self supporting type of ladder with two similar sections that are linked with internal guides on the bottom of base section and external guides on the top.
• Sections are pulled apart to increase length.
• Used for working in high areas and primarily for exterior applications.
• Available in heights ranging from 16’ to 40’.
• Smaller extension ladders are extended manually and secured with gravity spring lock brackets
• that rest on the selected rung.
• Larger extension ladders are extended by means of a rope and pulley running down the side of the ladder and secured with a cleat.
• Generally available in all aluminum and fiberglass with aluminum rungs.
• Rungs can be round or flat and are usually serrated for enhanced slip resistance.
• Ladder shoes pivot to allow full contact with ground. Shoes can also be turned up to penetrate soft ground for extra stability.
• Quality classifications include consumer (household), commercial (mechanic) and industrial grades.

• Is the screw portion of a “C” clamp, designed to be secured onto any surface, with the screw used to apply clamping pressure.
• Also available in locking models, similar to locking clamps.

• A type of aluminum stepladder with three steps for ordinary household climbing tasks.
• Some models feature extra wide non-slip treads for comfort during long periods of use.
• Common step heights include 10”, 20” and 30”.
• Most have a 200 lb. duty rating.
• Most have a platform above the steps for resting tools and materials and a high handrail.
• Folds easily for convenient storage.

• Also called band clamps, they apply even clamping pressure around irregular shapes or large objects to hold tight by means of a spring-loaded locking fixture.
• Commonly used on cylinder-shapes and to hold chair legs while gluing.