Intended to be screwed into pre-threaded holes in metal.
May look like a bolt, but user drives it with a screwdriver instead of a wrench.
Comes in coarse (24 threads per inch) and fine (32 threads per inch) sizes.
They are sized according to diameter, thread and length. Example: a 6-32×3/4 means the screw has a 6-gauge diameter with 32 threads per inch and is 3/4” long.
The round head type is most commonly used. The flat head type is used when the top must be flush with the surface.
Oval heads are used in countersunk holes. Fillister heads are used in counter-bored holes.
Designed specifically for use with power equipment.
Several types are available. One type is a pneumatic fastener where nails, screws or staples are collated in strips or coils that are loaded into a pneumatic gun that drives them into the material.
Another type is the powder-actuated fastener, where the fastener is driven into the material, usually metal or concrete, by a small explosion, similar to the way a firearm works.
Comes in various diameters and lengths ranging from 1/32” x 1/2” to 1/4” to 18”.
Inserts into a hole in a bolt, shaft or similar part. An eye on one end prevents the pin from going through while prongs at the other end are bent back to lock the pin in place.
Has a steel sleeve on the shank, split at the bottom so it can expand.
The bolt has a cone-shaped plug at the base and a nut at the top.
When the user places the anchor in the hole and tightens the nut, it draws the bolt upward, pulling the plug into the sleeve and expanding it against the hole.
As the bolt is tightened, the cone draws up through a slotted sleeve and expands against the interior of the drilled hole with great force.
Requires no caulking and is excellent for heavy holding of problem material such as cement, cinder blocks, hollow tile and other concrete mixes.
Requires a large hole. Use a power drill and masonry bit.
Use short lengths in good-grade concrete or where thickness limits the length. Use long lengths in poorer-grade concrete where extra anchorage is required.
Ring-shanked nail used for attaching sheets of drywall gypsum board to interior wood wall studs.
Flat, slightly countersunk head permits driving just below the surface, forming a depression that can be covered with drywall joint compound or spackling.
Closes the door at a controlled speed. Usually used on storm and screen doors.
Operates with a spring and piston. When the door is pulled open, the spring inside the cylinder is depressed, thus exerting pressure to pull the door closed automatically. The piston controls the speed. An adjusting screw allows the user to change the speed of the closing.
A closer made for the disabled has an automatic hold-open feature that engages when the door is opened about 90º. A wheelchair occupant can tap the door again in the opening direction to close it automatically.
Interior door closers have a canister-like apparatus mounted on the door and a knuckle-joint arm to push the door closed. A spring-loaded closer is another type that can be installed on existing door hinges.
Use closer reinforcements to attach to the frame to provide a stronger anchor.
It usually covers the joint where two types of floor material meet.
Can be made of metal, aluminum or wood.
It may have a rubber strip in the center to aid in weatherproofing.
An astragal is a molding or strip that covers or closes the gap between the edges of a pair of doors. Some types overlap while others meet at the centerline of the gap.
Made of zinc or galvanized, heavy-gauge steel especially for barns and outbuildings where rough, heavy-duty use is required.
Consists of a hanger similar to a four-wheel trolley with a box-shaped track that acts as a guide.
Use either roll or ball bearings. Ball bearings are considered the superior choice.
Capable of supporting loads from 100 lbs. to 3,000 lbs.
The track is usually mounted to the building by brackets, although some track requires no brackets and is mounted directly to the building with screws.
Other hardware includes flush pulls, bow handles, stay rollers, bottom guides, bumper shoes and end stops.
Consists of a motor unit that raises and lowers overhead doors upon command of a control unit.
There are three types of drive mechanisms: bicycle-type chain and sprocket, plastic strip and worm-screw drive.
The control unit may be either key or wireless operated. If key operated, the user must leave the car to unlock the door. Wireless versions may be operated via a transmitter that starts the opener motor.
A safety feature is a device that automatically reverses the descent of the door when it encounters resistance when closing. All residential garage door openers must incorporate an optical sensor that will prevent the door from closing if it senses an obstruction.
Economy models have a 1/4-hp motor and heavy-duty units have a 1/3- or 1/2-hp motor.
The four basic cabinet door designs that determine the type of hinge required are: flush-mounted, lipped/inset, flush-overlay or reverse bevel.
For flush-mounted doors, use a full-mortise butt or full-surface hinge, an ornamental strap hinge or a concealed hinge.
For lipped doors, use semi-concealed cabinet hinges so the hinge leaf attached to the cabinet frame is exposed and the hinge leaf attached to the door is concealed. A surface hinge for this kind of cabinet door must be offset to match the outside of the door.
For flush-overlay doors, use a pivot hinge mortised into the top and bottom of the door. Also use a butt hinge or a semi-concealed hinge.
For reverse bevel doors, use a hinge that features a slant on the door wing that is compatible with the profile of the cabinet door.
Some hinges have a self-closing feature that closes the door automatically from about a 10° opening. These operate on a spring-loaded cam and are made from heavy-gauge steel.
Basic consideration in choosing a knob will be style.
Backplates are decorative and provide additional support for hollow-core doors and drawers.
When replacing an old knob, remember to make sure the new knob will use or cover the holes left by the old one. Use a backplate to cover the second hole if replacing a pull with a knob.
Backplates are decorative and provide additional support for hollow-core doors and drawers.
Basic consideration when choosing will be style.
When replacing an old pull, remember to make sure the new knob will use or cover the holes left by the old one. Use a backplate to cover the hole if replacing a knob with a pull.
The holding power is reduced if only part of the magnet makes contact with the strike. Therefore, the magnet must be installed carefully to properly align the catch and the strike.
Quality features include a floating or self-adjusting action to ensure proper alignment and contact.
The monorail type uses a single track under the center of the drawer with drawer rollers on the left and right side. It is easy to install because it requires minimum measuring and templates. It is low in cost and fits both new and old installations.
The side-mounting type uses four tracks, one attached to each side or bottom of the drawer and one on both the left and right sides of the cabinet. It has rollers on which the drawer rides.
Some types of slides are self-closing. They close when the drawer comes to within 4” to 5” of the back, regardless of the load or its position in the drawer.
Quality slides permit little side movement, prevent accidental drawer pullout, have high-quality rollers and are precision-made to close tolerances.
Allows furniture to move easily along the floor. Also protects floor from scuffing.
The three-prong type is hammered into the legs of light furniture. It is easy to install and easy to remove.
The cushion type is for heavier use and is mounted by hammering into the furniture leg.
A cushion glide for caster holes is the best type for heavy furniture. Here, the socket replaces normal stem-type casters.
Some glides have a tilting stem with a 40° range of movement. These glides are made for furniture with angled legs so that the base of the glide sits flat on the floor.
Other types of glides include rubber leg tips and heavy-duty, self-adhesive nylon or felt pads.
Rings must be 1/4” larger in diameter than the rod for free movement. Some have eyelets for insertion of a drapery hook.
Ring Clips are oval or round. When pressed on the sides, the prongs open. When pressure is released, the prongs grasp the top of the drapery.
The Slip-On Hook fits over a rod or into an eyelet on the rod. The drapery heading fits between the two close-facing shanks on the opposite side of the hook.
The Pin-On Hook works the same way except that the drapery heading is hooked into the sharp pin, which is opposite to the side that hangs on the rod.
The Pleater Hook is used with pleater tape sewn to the drapery heading. Three or four prongs, or shanks, form pleats when the heading is placed onto the shanks.
Swagholders make decorative window treatments with ordinary fabric by draping and forming poufs, rosettes, bishop’s sleeves and festoons.
Fasteners for draperies include hollow wall screw anchors, toggles and plastic anchors. These work well in drywall, plaster walls, concrete blocks and other masonry materials.
One type is made for mounting on a post (typically in rural areas), the other is for mounting on a house (typically in town).
Rural mailboxes are medium or large size, usually made of heavy galvanized or painted steel, aluminum or plastic. Since they will be exposed to the elements, they must be able to resist the weather.
You may need a mounting pole for rural mailboxes. Wrought iron posts are attractive and last a long time. Wooden posts should be treated if they are to last a long time.
Suggest enamel plates and stick-on letters for street names and numbers. Large 4” high numbers make it easy to identify a house at night.
Pre-slotted metal strips attached to the wall, preferably into wall studs.
Can be attached with toggle bolts or similar fasteners approximately 16” apart.
If the standards are further than 16” apart, the shelves may not support heavy loads.
A newer variation includes a mounting rail that is fastened across the studs. The standard then clips directly into the rail or may require an adapter. Usually requires a fastener at the bottom for stability.
Fits into the slots on shelf standards and supports shelves. Some types mount directly onto the wall.
A flexible storage system can be built with standards and brackets that are easily removed and repositioned by pushing up and lifting out.
Can be mounted in cabinets, closets or bookcases.
One type is used with invisible shelving systems, which offers ways to put shelving into living areas. These systems mount brackets directly on the walls to support wood or glass shelving. They are not suggested for heavy support jobs.
Another form of standard is the Z bracket. It is frequently used for utility shelving in basements or garages. It offers more support than other types and is less expensive.
Floor-to-ceiling standards can be used to create room dividers.
These pieces are usually double-slotted and come in lengths ranging from 7’6” to 12’.
Nail Hangers consist of a piece of metal with a hook on the lower end of a twist and loop that forms a nail hole. Depending on the size, this type will hold from 10 lbs. to 100 lbs.
Adhesive Hanger is a piece of flat metal with cuts or serrations along either edge that attaches to the back of a picture frame. The strip will stick to any clean, flat surface like glass, wood or metal. For light-duty use only.
Adjustable Hanger is a piece of flat metal with cuts or “serrations” along either edge that attaches to the back of a picture frame. Serrations allow for adjustment. For light-duty use only.
Utility Hanger is a hook that has an eye drilled into the flat upper piece for nailing or screwing to the wall. For light to medium use.
Hook Anchor is made of polypropylene and can be used in hollow or solid walls. For light to medium use. It will hold mirrors and pictures.
Hardwall Hanger is a plastic hook with case-hardened pins that can drive into brick or concrete walls to hold light- to medium-weight mirrors and pictures.
Flush Mount Hanger has two pieces of formed metal. One piece mounts to the picture and the other to the wall. These pieces interlock to create a high-load system.
One-piece bands with self-locking catches or heads on one end.
Available in different widths and lengths to accommodate various bundle diameter sizes.
Used on anything that needs to be tied up, tied down or held in place.
Natural, colored and fluorescent ties are used indoors while UV (sunlight resistant) black ties are used outdoors.
Mounting bases can be used with standard cable ties to fix wire bundles to support structures or other surfaces. Bases are adhesive-backed for quick anchoring and contain molded knockout screw holes for extra power.
Use cable tie tools to make the use of cable ties easier.
May be made with or without a center filling (core) that gives it strength.
Diamond braid cord, also known as maypole braid, does not have a core and is frequently used for drapery cord or Venetian blind cord or as low-cost clothesline. It splices easily.
Solid braid cord is firm, round and tightly woven so it will not unravel when cut or torn. Works well over pulleys and has good abrasion resistance.
Double braid is when both the rope and the core are braided. It is the strongest and most expensive type of rope.
Has links twisted at uniform angles. The slight twist in the links tends to make the chain more flexible and prevents the entire chain from twisting and knotting during use.
One type is the coil chain, which has long lengths.
Another type is machine chain, which has shorter links than the coil chain.
Has numerous uses, including attic ventilation, foundation vents, security screens and protective panels for screen doors.
Available in galvanized steel or aluminum.
Typical meshes are 2×2, 3×3, 4×4 and 8×8. Common widths are from 24” to 48” in 100’ rolls.
Also available in plastic, where typical mesh sizes range from 1/8×1/8 to 1×1. Plastic has no sharp edges, will not rust, rot or corrode and is available in dark green and crystal colors.
Fastens thin metal to thin metal.
Can have round, oval, flat and fillister heads.
Prevents bolts from loosening due to vibration.
Used to secure wood together.
Threaded on both ends.
Also called a lag bolt.
Use when installing drywall or decking material.
Designed specifically for use with power equipment.
Used to tighten wire or for bracing doors.
A screw eye consists of screw thread at one end and a ring at the other.
Has a square shoulder under the head that pulls into soft materials such as wood and prevents the bolt from turning while the nut is tightened.
Used to hold light metals or wood.
Comes with regular, square, hex, button or countersunk heads.
Rod with continuous thread from one end to the other.
Small metal circles that provide a hard surface against which you tighten a screw.
Screws onto the threaded end of a bolt to help tighten the bolt.
Versatile fastening device.
Securely fastens something that can be reached from just one side.
Used where the back of the wall is inaccessible.
Also known as an expansion bolt.
For light-duty use on drywall.
Use with wood or sheet metal screws.
Hardened steel screws designed to cut threads in pre-drilled holes.
Expandable concrete anchors set in pre-drilled holes.
Diameter sizes range from 1/4” to 3/4” and lengths from 1-3/4” to 6”.
Has a shank similar to a sleeve anchor—a solid shank, threaded at the top and with a cone-shaped plug at the bottom.
Has a steel sleeve on the shank, split at the bottom so it can expand.
Used inside drilled holes to provide anchors in the hole for lag bolts as they are wrenched into the shield.
Also known as lead shield.
Made of high-strength spring steel or of aluminum with a stainless steel pin for use in hard materials.
Lighter and smaller than common nails with a larger head.
Has a double head to allow for easy removal in temporary construction applications.
Similar in appearance to a finishing nail, but is thicker and has a flat head.
Used in general carpentry and wood framing.
Has a plastic or metal flat cap at the head.
Has a blunt tip to prevent splitting of flooring.
Ring-shanked nail used for attaching sheets of drywall gypsum board to interior wood wall studs.
Used around windows, finishing areas, trim and paneling where nails cannot show.
Screw-shanked.
Made of hardened and tempered steel.
Has large heads and diamond points.
Galvanized or with some other non-staining finish.
Bright-finished, ring-shanked.
Has ornamental or colored heads.
Used for household jobs requiring small fasteners where heads will be concealed.
Mounts at the top and bottom of the door leaving a small wafer of metal exposed.
Fits between the butt of the door and the frame.
Closes the door automatically.
Specifically designed for surface applications.
Shaped like the letter T.
Also called piano hinges.
Closes the door at a controlled speed. Usually used on storm and screen doors.
Kick plates protect the bottom of the door from scuffing.
A strip fastened to the floor beneath a door.
Includes a variety of latches, strikes and pulls available as original or replacement hardware for screen and storm doors.
Made of zinc or galvanized, heavy-gauge steel especially for barns and outbuildings where rough, heavy-duty use is required.
Limits and controls the swing of an unlatched casement.
Tightly locks window sash to prevent opening them from the outside
Uses a cam action and a lever to tightly lock window sash and prevent them from being opened on the outside.
Consists of a motor unit that raises and lowers overhead doors upon command of a control unit.
The four basic cabinet door designs that determine the type of hinge required are: flush-mounted, lipped/inset, flush-overlay or reverse bevel.
Used on cabinet doors and drawers.
Used on cabinet doors and drawers.
Helps the cabinet door stay shut.
Helps the cabinet door stay shut.
Uses a magnet to help the cabinet door stay shut.
Helps the cabinet door stay shut.
Helps the cabinet door stay shut.
The monorail type uses a single track under the center of the drawer with drawer rollers on the left and right side. It is easy to install because it requires minimum measuring and templates. It is low in cost and fits both new and old installations.
Allows furniture to move easily along the floor. Also protects floor from scuffing.
Provides mobility for heavy furniture.
Provides mobility for heavy furniture.
Comes in a variety of diameters and materials with a multitude of uses.
Available in two main types: splayed (for slanted usage) and straight.
Used to hang curtains over both upper and lower window sashes.
Allows opening and closing of drapes with a downward pull on a cord.
Used with rings for pleated draperies and with high headers.
Holds the adjustable tension rod in place when it must be mounted inside the window casing or when screws cannot be used to hold brackets.
Adjusting positions permit it to swing clear and project outward to keep curtains clear of venetian blinds.
Rings must be 1/4” larger in diameter than the rod for free movement. Some have eyelets for insertion of a drapery hook.
One type is made for mounting on a post (typically in rural areas), the other is for mounting on a house (typically in town).
Pre-slotted metal strips attached to the wall, preferably into wall studs.
Fits into the slots on shelf standards and supports shelves. Some types mount directly onto the wall.
Nail Hangers consist of a piece of metal with a hook on the lower end of a twist and loop that forms a nail hole. Depending on the size, this type will hold from 10 lbs. to 100 lbs.
One-piece bands with self-locking catches or heads on one end.
Includes metal plates and braces specifically designed for use as reinforcement in a variety of applications.
May be made with or without a center filling (core) that gives it strength.
A twisted rope that can be used where it is likely to be discarded after each use and where strength is not important.
The most frequently used natural fiber in twisted rope today.
A twisted rope that is less expensive than other rope fibers, making it a good all-purpose rope.
A twisted rope that is the most versatile of all because of its strength.
A twisted rope with strength similar to nylon.
Made by twisting yarns together to make a single, continuous strand.
The most common all-purpose chain.
Available in many gauges and link sizes.
Has links twisted at uniform angles. The slight twist in the links tends to make the chain more flexible and prevents the entire chain from twisting and knotting during use.
Made with links sufficiently wide to permit the links to pass each other easily, keeping kinking and tangling to a minimum.
Commonly called sash chain.
Made of light-gauge wire with the links formed by knotting or tying the wire to the desired link size.
A weldless, stamped, flat link chain.
Attaches directly to a welded chain.
Used to temporarily link chain and couple light attachments.
A permanent solution to linking two chains.
Provides more control in binding and releasing two chains.
Consists of metal wheels with grooved edges.
Has numerous uses, including attic ventilation, foundation vents, security screens and protective panels for screen doors.
Used to mount cable to studs or other framing members.
Secures the toilet bolt base to the floor flange.