Generally made of steel or high-impact polystyrene and convert dimensional lumber into a sturdy wooden sawhorse.
Brackets allow user to construct a sawhorse of any height and length.
Brackets are generally secured to wood with screws, nails or wing nuts. Other types provide flanged nail holes for easy nail removal with a claw hammer.
Selling features include ease of assembly since miter cuts are not necessary and sturdiness and convenient storage since most brackets allow legs to fold together.
Common types include Danish oil, tung oil or Swedish oil.
Provides coloring and protection in one step. However, oil finishes do not stand up to alcohol or water the way polyurethane does, so they are not recommended for high-traffic, abuse-prone applications.
Oils make nice, low-luster finish for furniture and other fine pieces. Waxing can provide water resistance with these finishes.
Lemon oil can be used to replenish fine wood with its natural oils while protecting the finish. It is best to use products that contain no beeswax or silicones that could cause a buildup or darken the wood.
Timber oil is a wood finish designed to penetrate exotic hardwoods such as mahogany and teak. This specialty wood finish helps preserve the hardwood and maintain its natural appearance.
Available in several shades, timber oil is a combination of tung oil, linseed oil and long-oil alkyds. In general, teak should be treated with oil-based formulas. Since teak is denser than many other common woods, wood protector should be applied with a brush or by rubbing it in with a cotton cloth.
Cuts through and dissolves rust from metal surfaces to form a metal shield that can be painted.
In jellied form, it clings well to vertical surfaces.
When brushed on, the rust dissolves quickly.
These products are extremely harsh on the skin; protective gloves should be worn.
The solution is applied with a stiff brush or aerosol spray and allowed to dry for 12 to 24 hours, depending on humidity (check manufacturer labeling and literature).
A self-supporting device used for climbing that consists of two rectangular frames hinged at the top with one side containing the rungs for climbing.
Non-adjustable in length and folds closed for storage.
Available in increments from 2’ to 12’ in height.
Steps are flat and riveted and are generally 3” or more in width.
Most models include a top plastic platform on top for storing tools or loose fasteners.
Available in wood, fiberglass and aluminum construction in various duty (weight) ratings, with fiberglass considered the best construction of the three.
Quality classifications include consumer (household), commercial (mechanic) and industrial grades
A non-self supporting type of ladder with two similar sections that are linked with internal guides on the bottom of base section and external guides on the top.
Sections are pulled apart to increase length.
Used for working in high areas and primarily for exterior applications.
Available in heights ranging from 16’ to 40’.
Smaller extension ladders are extended manually and secured with gravity spring lock brackets
that rest on the selected rung.
Larger extension ladders are extended by means of a rope and pulley running down the side of the ladder and secured with a cleat.
Generally available in all aluminum and fiberglass with aluminum rungs.
Rungs can be round or flat and are usually serrated for enhanced slip resistance.
Ladder shoes pivot to allow full contact with ground. Shoes can also be turned up to penetrate soft ground for extra stability.
Quality classifications include consumer (household), commercial (mechanic) and industrial grades.
3-position, multi-lock hinges offer many different arrangements and combinations to become a step ladder, an extension ladder, a stairway ladder (modified step ladder) or a scaffold.
No tools needed for conversion between ladder types.
Most models extend between 12’ and 16’ and carry either a 225 lb. or a 250 lb. duty rating.
The most common type of clamp—consists of a C-shaped frame, made of either forged steel or cast iron, into which an adjustable screw is assembled to change the jaw opening.
The size of a C-clamp is measured by its jaw capacity—the dimension of the largest object the frame can accommodate with the screw fully extended. Most range in jaw capacity from 2” to 10”.
Also important is depth of throat, the distance from the center line of the screw to the inside edge of the frame. C-clamps range from 3/4″ to 14″.
Most have a sliding cross-pin handle or a wing nut that is used to tighten the screw.
Has a clamping device built on a flat bar, which is usually made of steel.
The length of the bar determines the capacity of the clamp, which is the dimension of the largest object that can be accommodated between its clamping jaws.
“Reach” is the distance from the edge of the bar to the end of the clamping jaws.
Screw pressure applies the final clamping load.
Bar clamps are used for clamping large objects, making them popular with woodworkers and hobbyists.
Can be mounted to standard threaded or unthreaded pipe to clamp boards together while gluing.
Clamping can be performed from one end or both, and jaws can be positioned at the ends or anywhere along the pipe.
Pipe clamps can also be quickly converted from a clamp to a spreader.
A hardened steel set screw holds the head firmly on the pipe, but is easily loosened. The 3/4″ size has a crank handle, and depth from screw center to pipe is 11/16″. The 1/2″ size has a crosspin handle, with depth from screw center to pipe of 7/8″.
Also called a cabinetmaker’s clamp, it consists of two hardwood clamping jaws adjusted to the work by two opposing steel screw spindles assembled into the jaws.
The jaws adjust to a variety of angles and come in a wide range of sizes up to 10”.
They are used for clamping wood, metal, plastic and fabrics.
Handscrew adaptors can be used to convert handscrews into miter clamps.
Also available are handscrew kits so woodworkers can make their own jaws.
Also called band clamps, they apply even clamping pressure around irregular shapes or large objects to hold tight by means of a spring-loaded locking fixture.
Commonly used on cylinder-shapes and to hold chair legs while gluing.
Used to help cut exact angles for wood trim and rafters.
Better models provide a mechanism for a backsaw.
They are made of plastic, hardwood or aluminum.
Some boxes feature magnetic mount guides. The magnets grasp and hold the saw to the miter box saw guide or hold the saw blade to the plane of the saw guide.